Enoshima, a living legend island

Mt. Fuji appearing in Hatsuyume, the first dream you have in the year, has always been regarded as a lucky sign as it predicts that you'll have good fortune for the new year. As I want to begin the first post of 2013 with something auspicious, I’ve placed this Fuji photo at the beginning. It was taken at Enoshima recently. As dawn breaks, the summit of the mountain across the sea shines, fishing boats are leaving the port one after another in the rosy-gold light, and the flowing outline of Fuji is profiled by the morning sun.

Happy New Year!!

The small island Enoshima is endowed with many legends. Though I know the quote, ”Legend: A lie that has attained the dignity of age”, legend has it that a beautiful celestial maiden made the island rise from the bottom of the sea in the sixth century.*1 It is said that the maiden was the goddess Benzaiten (弁財天）. Originally a Hindu deity (Sarasvati), who represented water, learning, music, and art in India, she has become more versatile since she was introduced to Buddhism and Shintoism in Japan.  Enoshima(the near side) →

Probably because of the traditional Japanese happy-go-lucky take on foreign deities, she now represents wealth as well and in Enoshima she is even thought to be a goddess of matchmaking. Whew!! Look at these numerous pink ema tablets which are hung from the rope that ties two big trees together. The trees represent a pair of lovers and on the pink ema, sincere wishes for happy marriage are written. It seems that some modern people who fall in love are as superstitious as those who lived in the Edo period. The Benzaiten is one of the seven lucky gods and has always been portrayed as a beautiful lady. She sometimes has a type of Japanese lute called a biwa (琵琶）.  

(left; Benzaiten, Kamakura period, 13th century, at Tokyo National Museum)＊２

by Utagawa Hiroshige （1797～1858）, Edo period

The photo you see below is of Enoshima Shrine. Located in Sagami Bay off Fujisawa, not far from Edo (Tokyo), the shrine and the island were a very popular pilgrimage destination during the Edo period (1603～1868). Interestingly, visits to Enoshima served to both meet religious demands and sightseeing touring desires of the people back then. It was a peaceful age so high and low alike could safely go on a pilgrimage + sightseeing trip to many pilgrimage sites. 

Along the water front, you can explore deep caves called Iwaya which were created by erosion. In one of the caves there still remain many stone Buddhist relics that were carried there by ancient people. The religious history of Enoshima can be traced back as far as the seventh century. Going on further and further into the dark cave, you reach the spot where the original Enoshima Shrine was set up a long time ago. Legend has it that the cave path underground leads to the Narusawa ice cave at the foot of Mt. Fuji. 

Iwaya by Utagawa Hiroshige, Edo period

Enoshima is also well known as a cat island. Many strays stroll and sleep here and there. Many of them are fat and look quite tame.

There are many souvenir shops in the island. 

Unike in the Edo period, the Shrine has officially held the three Munakata sea goddesses as its principal deities since the Meiji era (1868～1912）. This sea goddess triad has usually been  identified with Benzaiten. I have no idea if this change happened for some spiritual reason or some political expedient due to the anti-Buddhist movement that occurred in the period, but the Benzaiten, the symbol of Enoshima, is still enshrined in a hall called Hoanden (奉安殿） and attracts lots of modern visitors. 

Anyway, one thing is clear: Enoshima is a very intriguing pleasure resort full of legends and religious and historical heritages. Today's Enoshima is like a theme park based on rich legends though I don't think that some of the newly created sculptures are in good taste. 

 In winter the top of the island is decorated with many lights.

 kawaii earthen snake bell. Snakes are thought to be the messengers of Benzaiten.  2013 is the year of the snake. 

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The island also has a famous five-headed dragon legend but I don’t want to make the post long so if you are interested in the dragon, read the details on the website by Robert.Juhl.Ph.D.here. 

*1 Enoshima Engi (江島縁起）

*2 from a private collection (photography permitted)